(no subject)

[raincitygirl]

Once again, I seek the wisdom of the internet. If you could only visit one of them, would you rather go to Scotland or Ireland? And which month would you visit in? Also, is the Caledonian Sleeper night train from London to Edinburgh as cool as it sounds?

Comments

[legionseagle]

I'd always travel on a sleeper where possible. I haven't done the one to Edinburgh in decades but clanwilliam did it a few days ago.

With respect to Ireland versus Scotland, it rather depends what you're looking for.

[raincitygirl]

Thanks for the tip re: the sleeper.

As for what I'm looking for: art galleries, architecture, pretty scenery. The usual touristy stuff, in other words.

[legionseagle]

If it's galleries, architecture and pretty scenery you've after, I'd say Scotland, specifically Glasgow first (closer to the West Coast for the scenery)because the art gallery has both all the Glasgow Boys stuff and lots and lots of contemporary art AND Charles Rennie Mackintosh and his wife and her sister Margaret and Frances MacDonald (whose work is amazing) some details here and a short burst of Edinburgh (for which city I am about to depart within the hour).

I'm very fond of Ireland, don't get me wrong, but I suspect Scotland may be more the kind of thing you have in mind.

[clanwilliam]

Take the Fort William Sleeper, if you can. Stunning and amazing - waking up withe Highlands passing your window is a treat.

I second the Scotland above Ireland thing too, if you only have one.

Although Scotland gets its fair share of idiots bopping around on nostalgia and misperceptions - the type of people who think Braveheart is a documentary. Maybe because Scotland is bigger, it's easier to avoid them.

Depending on how much time you have, you can see a lot. I left London on Monday night, arrived in Fort William Tuesday morning. Then bus across Ardnamurchan, ferry to Tobermory.

Wednesday morning, bus to Craignure, ferry to Oban. Stuffed myself silly at the seafood shack (the green one), ferry to Barra.

Thursday, spine route to Tarbert on Harris - I could have gone up to Stornoway, but preferred to return via Skye. This was Castlebay to Ardmhor, ferry to Eriskay (that's both Poppays visited!), bus up through South Uist, Benbecula and North Uist, ferry from Berneray (complete with otter crossing sign - I think I spotted a couple, but not sure) to Leverburgh, then bus to Tarbert.

Yesterday morning, I got the 7:30 ferry to Uig (Skye), bus to Kyle of Lochalsh (where I found another seafood shack - huge prawn or smoked salmon baps for £3), Kyle of Lochalsh to Inverness train (stupidly pretty and not as famous as the West Highland line), then sleeper from Inverness. Back in my own home 90 minutes ago.

This was all done on public transport. I only encountered one obnoxious tourist in all that time and I let her think I was English, much to the amusement of the Scots around me.

Ireland is a lot harder to do that way, although I could suggest a train and bus route.

I took a Haggis tour many years ago, and that was pretty good. A chunk of twee, but not too much, and a driver guide who was very much into displaying lots of Scottish culture, not just the packaged crap.

I can definitely suggest various routes/plans for Scotland - it's a country I enjoy bopping around very much.

Don't go in high season. May worked out, despite the unseasonal hail on Barra, and late September is good too.

[raincitygirl]

THANK YOU!!!! I am bookmarking this reply for next year. Will definitely consult you.

[twistedchick]

I have been to both. I would go back to Scotland first, Ireland second -- because in Ireland you are stuck perpetually between the expatriate projections of The Blessed Green Eire and the reality, or various versions of reality depending on where you are. Scotland was easier -- the past was there, but it stayed in the past.

[raincitygirl]

Yeah, I can see that getting really annoying really fast.

[legionseagle]

What she said. And, yes, Dublin is also a modern European city with all that implies but I suspect the bit you get to see as a tourist is more - processed? - with a specific sort of tourism in mind.

[clanwilliam]

Diane Duane, who is an Irish citizen and who has lived in Ireland for more than 20 years, actually had some US visitors complain that Dublin Airport's roof wasn't thatched.

[legionseagle]

Honestly! And didn't she tell them that it was until the European Aviation Authority told them that the goats climbing onto the roof to nibble the thatch were distracting the pilots on the approach route when the wind was westerly?

[twistedchick]

The one exception was the panel discussion I was at during Worldcon in Glasgow, on history in SF. One impassioned Scotsman rose and talked about how Scots all emphasize the worst things that have happened to them -- the Battle of Culloden being primary -- and went on for a bit about how Americans don't do that --- till a deep voice from the back of the room said, "Have you ever heard of the Alamo?"

In more practical terms, though -- Scotland was far easier to travel through, with the train and buses. Ireland ... it took two hours and two changes of bus to travel 17 miles from Dublin into Wicklow. Now, this may well have changed, but I remember very kind people and terrible transportation inefficiency there. Scotland had kind people also, but you could get to where you wanted to go on time.

[clanwilliam]

Oh yes. I let someone think I was English on Wednesday just so I wouldn't have to listen to that shite.

[raincitygirl]

ROTFLOL!!!!

[legionseagle]

Oh, God, I feel awfully guilty about recommending the Glasgow Mackintosh stuff when it ended up being devastated by fire within an hour or so of my posting the email. Almost like tempting fate.

[raincitygirl]

That did make me blink a little, I admit! I didn't actually check my comment notifications immediately, so I actually read your recommendation comment shortly after finding out that the place was on fire. No need to feel guilty though. It's just one of those spooky coincidences that happen from time to time.

It's a terrible cultural loss, but thank God nobody was killed.